2012-10-09 Tuesday

2012-10-09 Tuesday

Santiago de Compostela / Finisterre / Santiago de Compostela

Woke up to a rainy day. The Gang of Four plus Gunther, Yvonne and Jeovan met for breakfast at 0830. After breakfast the "tour directors" declared a free time, everyone on their own, until 1130, when we should meet in front of the Cathedral to attend the daily noon mass for Pilgrims. After Mass, we (minus Yvonne) are to congregate back at the hostal for the walk to the van pickup point for our trip to Finisterre. 

Terry and Nancy went to the post office to mail postcards, Gunther and Jeovan went back to the hostal. Paulo, Yvonne, and I decided to go together to visit the Cathedral before the mass. We found the main doors closed because of a mass being celebrated in one of the chapels, but Paulo and I figured that there must be a side door open for the locals to enter the Cathedral to attend this Mass. We circled the Cathedral and found an open door. We proceeded to do the things that Pilgrims traditionally do upon arrival: visit Santiago tomb below the altar, climb the stairs behind the altar and embrace, from behind, Santiago's statue that figures preeminently in the altar. Rituals accomplished, we walked around to see the magnificent Cathedral. At this point, the Mass had finished, and the main doors were open. Pilgrims and bus loads of tourists started to pour in, creating a long line to visit the tomb and to embrace the statue. 

Erico in Santiago de Compostela

The Cathedral plaza in a rainy day

The Cathedral

Cathedral interior

Botafumeiro

Botafumeiro

Botafumeiro

There was a third ritual for pilgrims, which is to touch a spot in one of the main columns with your full hand, the spot is well indented by millions of pilgrims that have palmed that same spot. The column was cordoned off with a security guard standing by, Paulo asked why the column was out of limits now, and the guard told us that the Church officials blocked the area off to protect the column from further damage, the oils and acids of Pilgrim's hands were damaging the stone. He also told us that if we wanted a good spot for the mass, we better find a good pew now, because the Cathedral gets completely full and they stop letting people in 20 minutes before the mass. 

It was 1030, and the pews were starting to fill. The three of us found a spot on the second row. This threw a monkey wrench on our plan to meet in front of the Cathedral at 1130, we could not reserve 4 additional spots for the others. We decided to stay put, Yvonne and Paulo reserved a spot for me between them, and I went out to the main square in the hope of seeing the others before the appointed time, when it would be too late to find a place to sit. It was raining heavily, and I took cover under some arches, from where I could see the meeting spot. I called Gunther on his cell, he was nearby but did not know the whereabouts of the others and immediately headed to the Cathedral to find a spot. I called Jeovan's cell, but it was turned off. I just waited for them to arrive. Shortly before 1100 I saw Terry and Nancy entering the square, I met them and we went in. The Cathedral was full, all seats taken, Gunther was able to squeeze in the pew behind ours, Terry and Nancy tried to find a seat elsewhere. They ended up siting at the base of one of the columns. Jeovan came to the meeting point shortly before 1130, did not see us there, and came to the Cathedral, figuring that we must be in there.

Now, let me talk about the "Botafumeiro." It is a huge metal incense burner, weighting hundreds of kilos, and it was installed during the middle ages to burn a lot of incense to mask the "aroma" of the masses of pilgrims just arriving from their long pilgrimage; baths were rare those days. It takes 8 trained men to lower it and make it swing from ceiling height to ceiling high to spread the incense smoke over the heads of the gathered pilgrims. The original intent no longer applies, and the Botafumeiro is now only used on the major church holidays. Unless you pay. For a "contribution" of 300 euros the Roman Catholic Church will put on a Botafumeiro show at the end of the Pilgrim's Mass. So the pilgrims never know for sure if there the Botafumeiro will be used or not. 

A few minutes before the Mass, a nun came in, and after giving a speech about being respectful during the Ceremony, no cameras, no filming, etc., she guided us in singing some of the chants to be used in the ceremony, and in the responses to the prayers. A deacon came in afterwards, and made several announcements, all in Spanish, welcoming visiting congregations and religious groups completing the pilgrimage today, and he thanked the generosity of a German congregation for the Botafumeiro.

Then the solemn mass began. Fifteen priests came in in procession. Six of the priests had just finished the pilgrimage, and each said a pray in their native language. It was a beautiful ceremony. For the Communion, the priests spread out through put the huge Cathedral to handle the long lines of people. 

When the mass was over, the celebrating priest announced the Botafumeiro. The 8 operators lowered it, another person poured burning incense in it, and the show began, with the oohs and aahs of the congregation. Many people - ignoring the admonitions, starting taking pictures, I was reticent at first, but when I saw the visiting priests at the altar taking photos, I joined the crowd. It was an amazing show, a fitting end to the celebration. 

When it was all over, we walked to our hostal, we found Jeovan as we were exiting the church, he told us that when Communion started, he saw Terry and Nancy get up and leave the Cathedral, he tried to wave to them for them to stay put for the Botafumeiro, but they did not see him and he could not yell to call them. 

When we arrived at the hostal Terry and Nancy were there, we asked them why they left early, they said that the lines for the Communion were long and assumed that the Mass would take too long to finish, and doubting that there would be Botafumeiro, they left. They had missed the announcement in Spanish. When we told them that we did have the Botafumeiro, they were crestfallen. 

We grabbed our backpacks and walked to the van pickup point, we are taking our packs because, upon our return from Finisterre, the driver will drop us off at the train station, except for Gunther, he is staying a couple of days more in Santiago. 

I am glad we went to Finisterre, but it was raining on and off, and although the rain had stopped by the time we got there, the cape was enveloped in fog. We could not see the ocean and the magnificent cape, just hear the roar of the Atlantic waves crashing on the rocks below. 

Gunther, Erico, Jeovan, Terry and Nancy in Finisterre

Erico and the Cape Finisterre lighthouse in fog

Cape Finisterre lighthouse in fog

Pilgrims burn some of their clothes in Finisterre

Jeovan, Erico and Paulo in Finisterre

Erico in Finisterre

A pilgrim's cairn

Bronzed boot

We arrived back in Santiago at 1830, and the driver dropped us off at the train station before taking Gunther back to the hostal. It was too early, our sleeper train departs at 2230. Paulo and Jeovan decided to take a taxi to a nearby "El Corte Ingles," a large department store, to buy shoes and clothes; Terry Nancy and I walked to a nearby bar for drinks, food, and wi-fi. 

We all met back at the station at 2130. We boarded the train and settled into our cabins. Terry, Nancy, Paulo and I are sharing a cabin for four (I told the booking agent we were members of the same family, and after 31 days on the Camino we certainly are, not by blood, but by solidarity) and Jeovan is in another cabin with three strangers. The Cabin is tiny, but functional, it's just 2 bunk beds and a small sink. We quickly settled into our bunks for the overnight trip, we will arrive at 0800.

Well, faithful reader, this ends this narrative. Thanks for following me in this adventure.

Did I enjoy it? YES!

Am I glad I did it? YES!

Was it easy? NO!

Toughest segment ? The first day, crossing the Pyrenees. 

Best (most beautiful) segment? The first day, crossing the Pyrenees. 

Worst moments? When my left knee was hurting and throbbing on each step. Luckily, after the 3 treatments I did in Leon, my knee gradually improved, and at the end I was in great physical shape. I did not have blisters, I did not have back pain, even on the days I carried the pack. 

Best moments? Apart from the moment you take your boots off at the end of the day? The lunch//dinners with friends at the end of the day, where the conversations. the laughs, and the wine flowed.

Would you do it again? YES!

What have I learned from the Camino?

1. Follow the Yellow Arrow.

2. Don't carry unnecessary stuff (physical or emotional.)

Did the Camino change me? Only time will tell. 

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I want to give many thanks to my fellow original pilgrims, members of the Gang of Four. Terry, Nancy and Paulo were excellent Camino companions. At first I was a bit apprehensive whether or not these four quite different individuals, each with a strong personality would gel together. We did, we got along fabulously. They made this experience unique and, I believe, much better than if I had gone alone. And to Jeovan, who joined our group, as originally planned, for the last 100 Km, he fit right in. Special thanks to Paulo, for suggesting this adventure three years ago, for keeping the idea alive, and insisting I come. 

I also want to express my appreciation to several other people who serependitiously, I met on the Camino, and who enriched my Camino experience, I will never forget them: Gunther for joining our group for the last 12 days of the Camino, and becoming an integral member;  Linda and Cathy, two fearless and indomitable world travelers; Toni from Barcelona, always a gentleman; Eric and Jamil, we had many good laughs together. There were many that left their positive imprint on my experience on the Camino, people like Yvonne - the shaman- from California, Ruth from Germany, Osmar from Brasil, Nancy and Ollie from California, Michelle from Canada, and last but not least, the group from Saragossa. I am grateful our paths crossed on this Camino adventure.