Camino de Santiago: September-October, 2012: 2012-09-16 Sunday

2012-09-16 Sunday

Nagera / Santo Domingo de Calzada

Camino day 9. Today's segment is 21Km.

Yesterday was a Fiesta day in Nágera and the city did not sleep. Neither did we. The fireworks were at 2330, and groups of revelers were walking up and down the streets singing or talking loudly as they go from one bar or club to another. There was a neighborhood social club next to the hotel and their noisy party went on all night long until past 7 this morning.

Breakfast was at 0730, we had the usual coffee and toasted French bread for breakfast, and we hit the trail at 0830. As soon as the sun raised above the rolling hills we had to shed our jackets, we were sweating. The forecast is for another scorcher.

BTW, today Nancy and I are carrying our full backpacks to test our knees on a low mileage day, "only" 21 Km.

Camino Trail

Paulo, Erico, Nancy, Terry

Paulo approaching a village

There are only 2 cities along this segment, Azofral on Km 5.8 and Ciruena on a hilltop, Km 13.3. We stopped briefly at each to have refreshments, expresso and a cold drink. We decided to press on to Santo Domingo to arrive there in time to have lunch at a restaurant before they all close for the siesta and only reopen 2000-2100.

We were surprised to bump into Jamil, the Brazilian from Salvador, we were expecting that he was further ahead because he needs to put more mileage than us each day if he wants to finish in 30 days. He said he got separated from Erik and does not know if he is ahead or behind.

We met just a few of our acquaintances. A new pilgrim we met is an 18 year old Italian girl from a city near Milan, Italy, she is doing the Camino by herself before starting college.

We were passed again by a skinny young woman that is running with a backpack. She had run past us Yesterday, on flip flops, as we entered Nájera. When she overtook us today, walking, we were going along the trail talking, four abreast. I said, "hey what happened to the running?" And she replied, "I was running, slowed down to a walk to squeeze by you guys" and off she went, running, leaving us behind in her dust. Very demoralizing.

We finally made to Santo Domingo, arriving at out Hostal R. Pedro I at 1400 exactly. It took us 5.5 hrs to walk the 21 Km.

We dropped our packs and immediately went to a nearby restaurant, Casa Amparo, recommended by the innkeeper. We an excellent 3 courses lunch for 15 euros per person including bottled water and a bottle of house wine. I had a delicious bean and sausage soup, a fantastic pork chops in orange sauce, and creme Catalan for desert. The waiter brought a bottle of a good house wine, but I wanted a better one.

We are in the Rioja wine region, and this is my opportunity to drink an excellent wine for the cost of a lousy wine in a restaurant in the US. Besides, it's a Sunday, deserving a good wine. With the help of the waiter, I selected an outstanding 2008 Rioja Crianza, Fernandez de Pierola, the price? 14 Euros. Terry and Nancy were happy with the house wine, so Paulo and I split the bottle.

Restaurant Casa Amparo

Delicious bean soup

Pork ribs

Rioha Crianza - Fernandez de Pierola

With the hunger satisfied by a good lunch, we went back to the hotel to shower and rest, before doing the laundry. Daily laundry is an inescapable chore of pilgrims.

While we rested I iced my knee.

We met at the appointed hour, 1900, and we went out to find the laundromat. While we waited for the wash to be done we walked around the town center, we could not get in the Cathedral, it was closed for tours and would open again only at 2000 for mass.

We walked into the Parador's lobby, impressive. Paradores ate luxury hotels in old buildings like palaces, monasteries, and the one in this town is one of the better ones, it was showcased in the movie "The Way."

As we walked by a bar in one of the squares, Linda and Cathy called us in, they were with "Sister." We sat down with them to chat, and had a beer. Later we came across Angela, one of the many Brazilians walking the Camino.